Thornbury Castle is a stunning location in anybody’s book made even more so by the mellow autumn evening’s fading light as we arrived, bathing the castle in sleepy tranquillity. We stopped a moment to admire the hotel’s Aston Martin, less historic than the castle but belonging to a bygone era of James Bond in his heyday, sleekly parked alongside the reception leaving no doubt that this is a very classy establishment.
Checking in at reception, passing an imposing suit of armour (if you have the impudence to lift the visor you’ll have the shock of finding a face looking back at you!) we went through into the impressive panelled and candlelit room where you can relax with a pre-dinner drink and look forward to choosing from the equally impressive restaurant menu. Our evening’s enjoyment went up a notch when we discovered that Mark Veale, a chef who isn’t on television or any of that nonsense because he’s too busy cooking beautiful food, is now Head Chef. So, no contest, we took his tasting menu and prepared to be wowed.
We had a table in the delightful hexagonal room in one of the castle’s turrets, the alcoves lit with candles, and the wood panelling casting a warm chestnut glow, the perfect place to put romance on the menu as well as fine food. We were encouraged by the sommelier to try Thornbury Castle’s wine made from its own vines which are over thirty years old. If you have ever had cause to be sniffy about English wine, don’t be, this was crisp and clean with subtle overtones of elderflower and we enjoyed it very much, particularly with the first two courses.
To begin, we had an excellent squash veloute with Parmesan foam served in a shot glass, and from the bread selection (which is all homemade) I had the most delicious salty focaccia bread. To follow, for me ballontine of foie gras and black truffle, almonds, with pickled girolles, gingerbread crutons in coffee reduction and on the other side of the table, duo of roasted red leg partridge and breast of quail, confit thigh, and Parmesan gnocchi, pancetta, with red wine dressing. The foie gras was amongst the best I’ve tasted, smooth and rich, the gingerbread introducing a nice sweetness to the dish. The partridge and quail were a great combination, and the Parmesan gnocchi an inspired addition.
On then to seared Orkney scallops, poached native lobster with crab stuffed courgette flower, pea purée and samphire, and a more simple fillet of wild turbot, beetroot and salad, and red sorrel dressing. My husband retired into a reverie from which I gathered the general gist that everything was marvellous and I was equally delighted with the wild turbot. It’s quite unbelievable that we had resources left to tackle the mouth-watering meat course, but we did and here it is. Duo of Herefordshire Angus beef (braised feather blade, roasted fillet) crispy bone marrow and truffle layered boulangerie potato with red wine jus, and a "Collection of Downlands lamb" mini shepherds pie, roasted kidney, caramelised sweetbreads, rack, pressed shoulder and neck. Both ambitious dishes but truly excellent and complimented by a glass of robust 2005 Bordeaux.
To finish, we shared a lemon meringue pie, with limoncello jelly and cardamom yoghurt with lemon sherbet and basil sorbet which proved to be the lightest lemon confection ever, with its tangy and refreshing sorbet the perfect end to a rich meal.
Our evening ended with an impromptu tour of the wine cellar, courtesy of the genial sommelier, whose passion is wine in its every incarnation. The cellar was fascinating and we could see how Thornbury Castle’s wine list can carry such variety and excellence. If you want something really special Thornbury Castle can’t be matched, either for lunch, tea or dinner and especially dinner!
Jacquie Vowles